Friday, March 31, 2017

The Road Less Traveled

Roads and trails vary a great deal on the Camino Portuguese. Now that we're in Spain, we've left the cobblestones behind. I'm sure they are partly responsible for Nancy's knee problem. 


For the past 2 1/2 days, we've had some excellent trails to walk. Rain is intermittent, but we're getting just as much sunshine. Today was our first full day in Spain. Immediately, trail conditions were better along with more places to stop and enjoy a coffee or something to eat. Still, at this time of year, there aren't a lot of pilgrims walking this Camino. Most of the time we have the trail to ourselves. As you'll see from these photos, the Portuguese and Spanish countryside are quite beautiful. 



Today, we were advised to take an alternate route through a forested area that turned out to be an excellent recommendation. Instead of walking for several miles on a highway through an industrial area, we strolled through a wooded area often along a stream. Walking doesn't get any better that this. 



We've decided to add a day on to our walk thus cutting down the number of miles we would have had to walk today. Seems like a popular decision being made by a number of other pilgrims we've talked with. We'll have one less day in Santiago, but one more day on the trail.


The Camino Portugués is relatively flat. We've only had one hill of any significance to climb so far (about 450 meters in elevation). The goat trail we went up reminded me of many of the trails in the Adirondacks. And, at the too, a pretty nice view as well! 



Symbols of the Camino


You learn quickly to follow the yellow arrow! Along the Caminho Central through Portugal, signage was excellent. So, it's just one step in front of another while looking for arrows, signs, or shells pointing the direction to Santiago.




Of course, other objects, religious and secular, take on particular significance here on the Camino.




Also interesting is how artists have tried to capture the essence of the pilgrim and the journey they are making to Santiago.



And of course, some signs are more obvious than others!




Camino Friends

One of the really great things about walking the Camino is the people you meet along The Way. We can't say enough good things about the Portuguese and Spanish people who have so graciously welcomed us into their countries. 

Along The Way one makes many Camino friends. It's always a highlight to bump into fellow pilgrims whether on the trail or in a cafe or at the albergue. After seven days on the trail, we now regularly see familiar faces. Unfortunately, mostly due to different walking paces, we only see some folks once. But, that's the way of the Camino.


We met Philip (Germany) and Kiera (Italy) just yesterday. They met on the Camino two years ago and are celebrating their anniversary by walking the same route again and are staying in the same places as they did on their first Camino.


We've been lucky enough to meet up with Less and Meta (Denmark) and Wolf and Stephanie (Germany) on several occasions including lunch today just outside O Porriño. We seem to be on a similar schedule so I anticipate more meeting on down the road.


And of course, there are the local friends who regularly greet us as we walk by where they live. Some are friendlier than others, but always fun to chat a moment or two with.

Tuesday, March 28, 2017

Casa de Fernanda

The Our stay last night at the Casa de Fernanda will definitely be one of our Camino highlights! For over 20 years, Fernanda has been taking pilgrims into her home providing them with a bed and meals. We were lucky enough to enjoy her hospitality and generosity that she offers day after day, 365 days a year.


After a fairly wet day of walking, we arrived at Fernanda's around three in the afternoon. She immediately fixed us a snack of fried fish, olives, bread, and hot wine. About two hours later, she had a full meal prepared for her pilgrim guests: delicious vegetable soup, fish, chicken, roasted potatoes, and sautéed greens from her garden. We ate like kings and queens! We finished off dinner with chocolates and white and Tawny Ports. Before we got back on the Camino, she had a full breakfast for us.


Although there were only five of us staying there last night, most nights she is cooking for a dozen or more. When it is time to leave, one gives a donation based on what they are able to give. 


If one wants to stay here, it's almost always necessary to have a reservation. We were lucky enough to get her one private room. Along with her 4 dogs, 2 pigs, and assorted chickens, we were very welcomed guests in Fernanda's home.


Our walk today was an easy 15 kilometers to Ponte de Lima. As you can see by the photo below, our room in this tiny pension/pizza restaurant has one of the best views in the city.


Monday, March 27, 2017

Day 3 - Barcelos to Casa de Fernanda

Overcast, chilly, and rainy! So far, we haven't hit great weather here in Portugal. Still, it's been warm enough to walk in a short sleeved shirt even in the light rain. Today's 23 km hike took us from Barcelos to the Casa de Fernanda where we had planned to spend the night. It was also a day where throughout the Portuguese countryside we got to see numerous examples of animals enjoying themselves.



I think that these two were supposed to be guard dogs, but they weren't too ferocious! 


Along The Way, one of our simple pleasures has been the excellent Portuguese cafe con leche.  Such a perfect cup of coffee for just 1€. 


Barcelos turned out to be a wonderful mid-size town where once again we had great accommodations at the Barcelo Way Guesthouse and enjoyed an tasty and inexpensive Pilgrim's Meal.


Of course, Nancy has enjoyed the photo ops as well as the many small churches in the towns we've passed through. Even with a bit of a bum knee today, she still walked 14.3 miles to get to the Casa de Fernanda where we look forward to another great meal with fellow pilgrims and a good night's sleep.





Sunday, March 26, 2017

Day 2 - Vila do Conde to Barcelos

Our 27 km hike today took us from the coast to our inland destination of Barcelos. Signage, although minimal, was adequate to get us over to Arcos where we caught the Caminho Central. From there on, plenty of markers indicating our route north.



The forecast this morning was for heavy rain. The Camino Gods must have been looking out for us as we only had light rain off and on during the afternoon. 


Judging by what we walked on, Portugal must be paved in cobblestones. A bit tough on the feet and slippery when wet.


In just a short period of time, we've already walked through a number if charming villages and towns.


Of course, we're making sure to find time to try all of Portugal's tasty specialties! Buen Provecho!


Saturday, March 25, 2017

Day 1 - Porto to Vila do Conde

A great first day on the Camino! From Porto to Vila do Conde, we took the coastal route which was pretty much a straight shot north along a boardwalk. The sun was out with a gentle breeze making for most pleasant walking.


After a nice breakfast at The Poets Inn where we got a short night's sleep due to our midnight arrival, we were at the cathedral by 9 am to pick up our Pilgrim's Credential. Porto seems to be a lovely city, but we unfortunately didn't get to see too much since we got in much later than expected yesterday. Nonetheless, we were both very excited to start walking this morning and take our first steps north. 


We chose the coastal route so as to avoid miles and hours of walking through Porto's industrial zone. It was an excellent decision! The walk along the beach couldn't have been nicer. 


With all the coffee shops and restaurants on our route, it was easy to take a break whenever we needed or wanted one. Our total distance today was 23 km or about 13 miles. Easy enough for a first day, but long enough to get back into the rhythm of walking.




We passed through some charming fishing villages today. Barely were we every out of sight of the ocean. Vila do Conde is itself a coastal town with a rich fishing history. Here in town, our hostel, the Bellamar, overlooks the River Ave.


Seafood is definitely on the menu tonight.




Friday, March 24, 2017

A Long Travel Day

LOne must always prepare for the unexpected and be able to tolerate delays, cancellations, and rerouting when traveling. And that was exactly our day! Due to mechanical problems, we left Montreal almost two hours late. This late arrival into Brussels caused us to miss the one direct flight to Porto that we were booked on.  There seems to be fewer flights in general because almost everything was full. After a long eight hours in Brussels, we've now made it as far as Frankfurt, Germany. But, no worries! We are due to leave here within the hour for Portugal. Fingers crossed, we'll get in around 10:30 and head to our inn for the night. This, too, could be an adventure since their reception will be closed and they haven't responded to my emails. Of course we'll figure something out. So, no sightseeing in Porto today as planned! We'll head to the cathedral in the morning when it opens to pick up our pilgrim's credential before  hitting the road. Always an adventure! Today has certainly been the long and winding road. 


As our rerouting sent us in unexpected directions, I'm very pleased that we kept our backpacks with us. We did check one small bags containing our hiking poles and a knife. I'll be most interested to see if it arrives with us tonight in Porto. No big deal if it doesn't! We'll just pick up new poles so we can start out Camino in the morning. 

Wednesday, March 22, 2017

Our Itinerary

Our travels from Porto to Santiago will take 11 days. Time will be almost evenly spent between Portugal and Spain. All in all, we'll walk 242 kms. or about 150 miles. We have some relatively short days of only 18 kms, along with a couple 30+ km days. Overall, we'll average 22 km or 13 miles a day. As the terrain is relatively flat, we'll be able to walk at a very leisurely pace arriving at our daily destinations in the early afternoon. Plenty of coffee breaks are planned as we head north.


Day     Date     Town.             Distance (kms)     Accommodations

1          3/23      Flight from Montreal-Porto

2          3/24      Porto                                    The Poet's Inn

3          3/25     Vila do Conde         26            Bellamar Hostel

4          3/26      Barcelos                  29            Barcelos Way Guest House

5          3/27       Lugar do Corgo     18            Casa de Fernanda

6          3/28       Ponte de Lima       15            Old Village Hostel

7           3/29      Rubiaes                  18           NINHO Albergue

8           3/30      Tui (Spain)              19           A. Tui Hostel

9           3/31       Redondela              32            Alfonso XII

10           4/1       Pontevedra            20           Slow City Hostel

11            4/2       Caldas de Reis      21             Alb. O Cruceiro

12            4/3      Padron                    18            Alb. Corredoiras

13            4/4      Santiago                  25            Hosp. San Martin Pinario

14           4/5       Santiago                                  Hosp. San Martin Pinario

15            4/6      Porto                       Bus          The Poet's Inn

16            4/7     Return flight from Porto to Montreal



Our accommodations range from private rooms in small inns and monestaries to double rooms with shared bath in hostels to dormitory beds in albergues. As I did when walking the Camino Francés last year, we've booked our accommodations in advance. I'm not sure what size crowds to expect this early in the hiking season. In any case, I appreciated knowing that when I reached my destination that my bed was waiting for me. No hunting around for a place to stay! When it's busy on the Camino, reservations can really reduce the stress of getting a bed. 



Thursday, March 16, 2017

Packing For Portugal

Getting ready for the Camino was easier the second time around.


As we carry everything, it's important to just pack just the "essentials." Extras are left at home! After careful planning, each pack only weighs about 6 kg. To say we're traveling as "minimalists" is even an understatement.

Here's our gear list:

Packing items/weights.                   Packed                        Wearing
                                                          (ounces)                      (ounces)
Clothing

Patagonia Hiking shorts                7.25 
Patagonia Pants                                                                   9.50 
Short Sleeve Shirts (2)                   4.0                                4.0 
Gerry Down Vest                             8.5 
Columbia Rain Jacket/Shell       10.0 
Base layer
   Long sleeved shirt                      6.75 
   Pants                                            5.0 
injinji ToesocksSocks (3)              2.50                              1.25 
Underwear (3)                                4.0                                 2.0 
Ball cap                                                                                  2.0 
Buff                                                                                        1.25 
Gloves & Touk                                  2.5 
OR Low Gaiters                                3.75 
Merrell Moab GTXs                                                              29.5 
PR/Soles Sandals                             7.0 
Froggtogg Poncho                           6.5 

Equipment/Supplies

Osprey Stratos 36L Backpack      48.0 
W/ Rain Cover
Fjallraven Sleeping bag                  17.0 
     (1-season)
Sunland Microfiber Towel               9.25 
Opinel pocket knife                                                               1.6 
Headlamp                                         3.0 
Toiletries/First Aid Kit                     19.0
H2O bottle (500ml) filled               20.0 
BAFX Hiking Poles                                                               21.5 

Extras

Brierley CP Guidebook                    6.75 
Canon G9X camera /case                                                   10.25 
Mini iPad                                          15.5 
Electronic Accessories                   13.5 
 
                                                        219.5
                                                          13.72 lbs or 6.24 kg