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Unfortunately, I didn't get the name of this tapas bar in Santiago, but it's on Rua Franca just a block from the cathedral. In fact, you walk right past it on the Caminho Portugués just steps from the end of your journey. There is no shortage of good food in Spain and Portugal, but tapas bars are a favorite of mine. This bar was a particularly good one based on the number of tasty choices they offered as well as judging by the large crowd and its popularity. While sitting at the bar, while also enjoying some excellent red wine, we met an Englishman who had just completed the CF by bicycle. Meeting interesting people along The Way seems to be a daily occurrence and one of the great reasons to be here in the first place. ¡Buen provecho!

Camino Daily Photo 19

Images of Saint James can be found along the length of the Camino. None, however, are probably better know nor capture the sense of "the pilgrim" better than this one found on the backside of the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. The afternoon light brings new life into the historic statue. From the hat, the staff, and the cape, one gazes upon him and better understands the journey just completed.

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The Backpack! Perhaps the singe most recognizable symbol of the pilgrim. For this Camino, we both used Osprey backpacks. Nancy the Sirrus (pictured) and for me, the Stratos. Both are 35L packs and just the right size! We noticed many pilgrims along The Way with much larger packs carrying much more gear than we were. After my first Camino last year, I knew that I wanted to reduce the weight I carried. We ended up with a total weight of just 6.25 kg and that included our water. What a joy it was carrying a light pack! Check out our March 16 entry for a detailed gear list. To walk far, carry less!

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On the outskirts of Pontevedra, we were struck by this mural which was also part of the cafe/bar of the same name. From doing a Google search, I can tell you that there are numerous Casa Pepes in Spain. But, from a tired pilgrim's point of view, look at the symbolism in this mural: the scallop shell, the staff, a grizzly old peregrino (Santiago himself), the cathedral, and, of course, a pint of Spain own lager, Estrella Galicia. If our hiking day hadn't been almost over, this would definitely have been a place to take a break and rest for awhile.

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A rainy morning in Portugal, but that's just part of the Camino experience. Our four days of light, early spring rain was not an inconvenience at all. In fact, it made for slightly cooler temperatures and pleasant walking conditions. The cobblestones get a bit slippery, but that just part of the charm walking this section of the Camino in Portugal. Little was needed other than a rain jacket and backpack cover. By the time we reached Tui, Spain, the sun had returned along with much warmer temperatures. 

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We had just crossed the river into Spain and were at our destination Tui where we'd spend the night at the Albergue El Camino in the heart of the medieval part of the city. We were the only two that night in our 6-bed dorm room. Time to look for some food! A number of places were closed that night, but we found the most charming wine bar just around the corner from where we were staying, the Santi Amen. There, as a fairly heavy rain came down, we enjoyed this plate of Spanish ham and cheese as well as a couple glasses of well-earned red wine. Throughout Spain and Portugal, the food was world-class! Buen provecho!

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A view of the cathedral and rooftops from our room in Porto. Whether you start here or are just passing through, Portugal's second largest city deserves a day for visiting. For 40€, we splurged and stayed at The Poet's Inn. Great location, excellent rooms, and a full continental breakfast is included. We were literally less than two minutes away from the Torre de Clérigos and the Lello bookshop. Five minutes downhill puts you in the heart of the historical district and dozens of great eateries. A wonderful city and a great stop along the Camino.

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Along The Way one collects sellos or stamps in their Credencial or Pilgrim's Passport to demonstrate their progress toward Santiago. We found that almost everyplace we stopped from albergues and hostels to cafe/bars to tourist offices offered the pilgrim a stamp for the passport. Some people only want one a day from the albergue they stay in; others, collect as many as they can. We came very close to filling up our passport gathering two to three stamps a day. By the time we reached Santiago, we not only had an attractive picture of the places we had just been through, but we also had one of best souvenirs of our Camino.

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On our way out of Vila do Conde, we ran across this fellow traveler on the road to the Caminho Central. He was a strong reminder that the Camino is not a race, but rather a journey. As Nancy was just beginning to deal with her knee ailment, there probably couldn't have been a more appropriate symbol of how speed was not an important concern. By slowing down our journey we ended up getting to spend an extra day walking. An extra day on the Camino! So, just like our snail friend, we held on to our journey just a bit longer enjoying, although painful at times, every step of The Way.

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It's late March in Portugal, but signs of spring were already here. As we were walking along the river into Ponte de Lima, the blossoming trees clearly signaled a change in seasons. Although the Brierely guide suggested going from Barcelos to Ponte de Lima in one day, for two reasons, we broke this stage into two. First, 33.6 km is a long day! Adjusted for elevation, primarily due to going up the Alto da Portela, one has a 35.8 km day! Too much for us! Our second reason was that we really wanted to stay at Casa Fernanda halfway through this stage. For both reasons, our decision was the correct one! More on Fernanda's in a later post.

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The last city in Portugal that one walks through is Valença. At this point, one has the choice of walking straight to and over the international bridge over the Minho River into Spain, or taking the detour that takes you through the winding streets of the military fortress known as the Fortaleza. Definitely, go through the fort! Built in the design of 17th century military fortresses, today it is filled with tiny boutiques and eateries and caters to a very healthy tourist clientele. Nonetheless, the ancient stone walls hint at what it might have been like centuries ago when The Portuguese kept vigilant watch over their Spanish neighbors.

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Does a path get more inviting than this one? As you can see, our journey on the cobblestones of Portugal took us through some of the most beautiful countryside that one could find anywhere. This photo shows a pretty typical path winding its way through farm country and small villages. Although the stones can be a bit tough on the knees, ankles, and feet, one learns to "embrace" the cobbles as they are quite a unique and sometimes challenging part of The Portuguese Way. 

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Along any journey, one meets some interesting characters. Meet Antonio! Yes, it's the same Antonio who is featured in the Brierley guide on page 128. We were still 8-9 km from Barcelos and it was time for a break. In Pedra Furada we found the popular cafe/bar of the same name that has been owned and run by Antonio's family for years. A small albergue has now been added for wornout pilgrims. Had we not had reservations further down the road, this is where we would have spent the night and had dinner. Photos of Antonio and various celebrities cover the wall. He appears to be in charge of everything from the bar to the albergue to the restaurant. If you're coming up from either Vilarinho or Vila do Conde and don't want the full 27+ km walk into Barcelos, Pedra Furada would be a great stopping point for the day. Bom Caminho!

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As we followed the yellow arrows and scallop shells north, there were almost as many blue arrows pointing south. Pilgrims heading to Fatima would be on the same trail we were, but  going south instead. This particular sign, was located at the Albergue Estrada Romana, halfway between Rubiães and Tui, right on the Camino path. Although we didn't stay here, the albergue offered a lovely courtyard for a coffee break. Another 10 km and we'd be off the cobblestones and crossing over into Spain. Only 125 km to Santiago. Our Camino is now half over.

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On the outskirts of Barcelos, our first coffee break was at Cafe Arantes. Like so many cafes in Portugal and Spain, it is the cornerstone of the community and the go-to place in the morning for coffee. No coffee connoisseur will be disappointed with the caffeine treats they find in these countries. Our morning routine would include a stop about every three miles to enjoy a great cafe con leche! Interestingly, we didn't have a bad cup of coffee on our Camino. The consistency is amazing as is the price (1 - 1.5€ a cup). Starbucks could never compete with the quality or the price of the coffee delivered by the local cafe/bars. Truly, it is one of the real treats of the Camino (for coffee drinkers that is)! Don't forget to add a croissant to go with your coffee!

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As we were climbing the trail over Rio de Vigo between Redondela and Arcade, we ran across the scallop shell wall. Hundreds of shells, many with names and notes have been hung here as a reminder that they passed by on their way to Sanitago. The scallop shell is traditionally hung from the pilgrim's backpack. Think of it as the "badge" of the pilgrim. It symbolizes the apostle Saint James himself. Today, along with the yellow arrow, these two markers show pilgrims the way to Santiago.

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After arriving in Porto, the starting point for our Camino was at the cathedral. There, we purchased our Pilgrim's Passport and began our journey north. One can start the Camino by walking out through town which includes several hours trudging through the industrial zone of Portugal's second largest city. Or, you can go along the coast which is what we did. Getting to the Coastal Route is quite easy! At the cathedral, one can head right down to the Rio Douro and follow it to the coast and head north. Or, the metro goes all the way up to Matosinhos where many begin the walk. We chose the third more scenic route by catching the #500 bus near the cathedral. It follows the river and coast dropping us off at the Matosinhos Market. It was a great bus ride setting the tone for a great day of walking up the coast mostly on boardwalk to Vila do Conde.

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Officially, cyclists also qualify as pilgrims too. Although the majority of people walk the Camino, one may bicycle it. To qualify for the Compostela, the official completion certificate offered by the Church, a pilgrim must walk the last 100 km to Santiago. Cyclists must peddle at least the last 200 km. As we arrived in Santiago, an exuberant groups of riders from Argentina got there at about the same time. Their excitement about completing the Camino was no less than ours.

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One of the great moments in our Camino was crossing over from Portugal to Spain. To do so, we walked across the bridge spanning the Minho River. Looking back towards Portugal in this photo, you can see the mix of new and old in the single-lane bridge construction.

Camino Daily Photo 1

Although we are now home, we have so many more photos to share with everyone. So, we'll be posting a "Photo of the Day" for the next few weeks. 

These concrete crosses were found all along our walk in both Portugal and Spain. Sometimes, there were associated with churches we passed; other times, they were just along side the road. They are a strong reminder that this route was what pilgrims took to Santiago for hundreds of years.

Arrival in Santiago

After twelve days on the Camino, we arrived safely in Santiago. Our journey of 240 km or 150 miles took us from Porto, Portugal north into Spain and up to our destination of Santiago. 

On the average, we walked 12 miles a day starting out around 8:30 every morning and easily finishing by early to mid-afternoon. Rain followed us the first week, but then there was nothing but blue skies and sunshine for our last five days into Santiago. 

Our accommodations ranged from private rooms in small hostels to bunk beds in dormitories. This was a very quite time on the Camino, so there was never any pressure on finding a bed. We had reservations where we stayed, but they would not have been necessary. 

Because we walked so many hours every day, in the evenings, we could eat almost any thing we wanted. Coffee breaks and lunch along The Way were enjoyed in the cafe/bars that are found everywhere along the Camino.

The other great joy we experienced was that of meeting up with our Camino friends. As it turned out, we regularly bumped into the same 10-12 people who we took breaks with or even had dinner with. One of the things that makes the Camino special are the people you are sharing the walk with. Some you only see once. Others, you have the good luck to meet up with regularly. 

A Real Sense Of History

One of the joys of traveling in Europe is getting to see see everything from bridges to churches that date back hundreds of years and even more.

As we walked through both Portugal and Spain, evidence of its early inhabitants is everywhere. Regularly, our path took us on where ancient Roman roads once were. We crossed bridges built when Rome occupied these lands.

Even more common are the structures built during the Middle Ages from great cathedrals to bridges where one can imagine knights of old on horseback crossing. 

Most impressive are the cathedrals, many begun around 1300, that took hundreds of years to completely finish. The cathedral in Santiago, our finishing point, was one such structure that easily overwhelms even the most sceptic observer. 

When In Galicia . . .

One of the real treats of travel is being able to taste and enjoy the food specialties an area has to offer. Galicia has some outrageously delicious dishes. When possible, we break away from the pilgrim's menu in order to try some of the seafood that this region of Spain is famous for. 

Empanada de Berberechos

Zamburiñas

Pulpo con Cachelos

When you have the option, order house wine "vino de la casa." It will most often come in a corked, unlabeled bottle and served in bowls. I find it much better quality than "known" commercial wines.