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So many excellent images of Saint James can be found along The Way, but this is one of my favorites. On the main Praza do Obradoiro, this ancient carved stone image on the Colexio de Fonseca, faces out to greet every pilgrim as she approaches the cathedral. The signs of time and wear and tear are as evident on his face as is felt by many pilgrims after completing their Camino.

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One of the real "treats" of walking any Camino is the food. It is outstanding in both Spain and Portugal! From a very simple torta or pie to a fancy seafood dinner, one can eat very well both on the Camino and at the end of the day once the walking shoes are off. Almost every café/bar offers some sort of tasty torta or sandwich to get the pilgrim through mid-day. We never packed a lunch, but instead looked forward to finding a café/bar to take a well earned break and enjoy some of the food hikers as well as locals consumed with gusto. One doesn't want to overdo it mid-day with many more kilometers yet to walk, but a slice of tortilla de potato, a torta, or even a sandwich with their delicious Iberian ham is enough before trekking on to find that night's albergue. 

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When leaving Porto, the pilgrim has several options. Although our plan was to follow the Central Route north, we were also aware that leaving the city via the industrial zone was less than pleasant. Therefore, after getting our Credencial at the cathedral that morning, we headed for the coast. Here, too, options exist! As it was now pushing 10 am (the cathedral doesn't open until 9), we shortened our walk by beginning at the Matosinhos Market a few kilometers up the coast, but still in Porto, instead of the city center. Shortly after starting out, one comes across the Farol or lighthouse. From here, straight north, we walked along an extensive network of wooden boardwalks until some 22 km later we arrive in Vila do Conde where we had reservations for the night. It was a beautiful day along the beach and a great first day on the Camino! The next morning, we would connect with the Caminho Central in Arcos.

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We found it very hard, if not impossible, to get lost on the Camino Portugués! It is so well signed with yellow arrows or scallop shells that making it to Santiago was a certainty. Once in Spain, the pillar type signage begins as you see in this photo. In addition to being pointed, by way of the fingers of the shell, in the correct direction, you can also follow your progression counting down the kilometers as the distance to Santiago is posted on each one (unless it has been stolen)! Beginning in Porto, we had a journey of about 250 kilometers in order to reach the cathedral. Here at 90 km out, we are near Mos and just a few kilometers short of Redondela where we would stop for the day.

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Regardless of the Camino you walk, the very rural nature of Spain or Portugal that still exists can be seen almost daily on the paths that pilgrims and herders share. Although it's everyday life to the locals, I found myself captivated by  the passing of a herd of goats, sheep, or cows along The Way. In addition, seeing folks planting gardens and tending crops by hand reminds us that we're not too far distant from a time when this way of life was much more pervasive. Still, it can't be understated how important rural life-ways still are to many people around the world for it speaks to one of the important lessons that traveling can point out to us that we should not forget the importance of simpler times and family values.

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Although we had initially planned on walking the full Tui to Redondela stage in one day (33.9 km adjusted for elevation). We decided that it would be far wiser to stop halfway in O Porriño. There is a wonderful trail along the river just before getting to the city center. Both the municipal albergue and the private Albergue Camino Portugués (where we stayed) are located just as you emerge from the woods. By taking this route, we were able to avoid the industrial zone of the city and we missed having to walk along the highway for several kilometers (another good choice that day). With camera in hand, I strolled through the Traffic free pedestrian downtown and had some fun trying to be a bit artistic with my photographs. 

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To see the Santiago Cathedral from a distance as one approaches the end of the journey is one of the great moments a pilgrim has. For days or weeks, one has been walking toward this destination now within teach. As you walk closer, downs the streets of Santiago, the anticipation grows even greater. Since 2013, restoration work has been going on covering a main portion of the cathedral's facade. It's my understanding that this work will be completed later this year. In spite of the scaffolding, the majesty of this important Christian symbol cannot be overstated. After all, it is what has drawn pilgrims here fir well over a millennia. We look forward to returning next spring after another Camino to admire the finished product.

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In nearly all, if not every town, we pass through In Galicia and Portugal, often near churches, but sometimes in the town square or at a crossroads, there are these religious stone pillars or cruceiros often depicting Christ on the cross. As a pilgrim, one can't help but feel a certain Devine protection along The Way and a real connectedness with the spirituality of this journey. The origin of the cruceiro dates from 1564. Each cross seems to take on the character of those who constructed it. No two seem identical. Whether one is a religious person or not, the spiritual component of the Camino is ever present offering with that an often needed sense of comfort to the pilgrim.

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I think that most pilgrims will tell you that people make the Camino Experience what it is. Regardless of the Camino route, the hiking will be great and the passage through time and history fascinating. The antiquity of this part of the world is quickly realized the first time one walks across a Roman bridge or enters a church dating from the Middle Ages. But, the people one meets along The Way leave the most enduring memories of this journey across this countryside. As we are about to end this trek, Santiago is now only a few kilometers away, we enjoy a last bit of refreshment with a Dutch and German friend who we've known most of the way since leaving Porto. People come and go from your Camino family, but after any number of days walking, one is bound to meet up with someone you've met earlier in your travels. One only walks alone if that is what you want to do. Otherwise, friendships seem to blossom without a great deal of effort and become an endearing part of most people's Camino. 

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Perhaps the single most important thing for pilgrims on the Camino is foot care! I can't overemphasize the importance of good shoes, good socks, and a light backpack for preventing blisters or other foot problems. We both walked in high quality waterproof Merrells. For this Camino, I also alternated Injinji toe socks with my Moreno wool hiking socks. On the CF last year, my blister problem started on my toes. The toe socks keep the toes from rubbing together thus reducing the friction and the possible occurrence of blisters. No problems at all this year! Whenever we took a break, off came the shoes and socks to air out the feet a bit. Changing socks mid-hike every day also reduces the moisture inside your shoes. Luckily in both Spain and Portugal, pharmacists are the hikers best friend when it comes to foot, knee, or leg ailments. Ibuprofen cream was a real life saver after many hours on the cobblestones! Bom Caminho! 

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The major hill on the CP is that of the Alto de Portela Grande about 5 km before you reach Rubiāes. In comparison with some the the climbs on the Camino Francés, this 405m ascent will get the blood to your heart pumping a bit, but is neither overly long nor difficult. At the top there is a great view to the east of the surrounding hills and countryside making is definitely clear that you are in a very rural part of Portugal. The top was also a great place to stop for awhile before descending and in just a few kilometers reach our stopping point for the day the Albergue O Ninho (The Nest). This, too, proved to be another great spot to spend the night with an excellent restaurant, the Bom Retiro, just a couple hundred meters down the road. The next morning, after crossing another wonderful bridge from the Roman era, we were on our way to Tui leaving Portugal behind us.

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As we arrived in the village of Mos, about halfway betwen O Porriño and Redondela, we couldn't help but notice this most interesting wooden/thatched structure near the church. Although most pilgrims probably hike right through this town, there are a couple nice cafe/bars Where one can enjoy a most welcomed morning café con leche as we did. If you had started from Tui that day and didn't want to go all the way to Redondela, you could overnight here at the Albergue Casa Blanca.

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Along The Way, one runs into a number of depictions of Saint James. Some very classic; others, quite modern! With his characteristic hat and scallop shell, it's hard to mistake him, regardless of art style, as anyone other than the pilgrim on his journey to Santiago. We found this most playful portrait, a very caricature-like image, in Padrón. 

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As is often said, we all walk our own Camino. For us, leaving just as the sun was coming up was part of how we liked to greet each new day. With backpack on, the fresh morning air and quiet city streets made it seem as if we were the only pilgrims on this journey (at least at this time of day). One thinks about the many people behind shuttered windows who aren't even aware of our passing by. Soon enough this stillness will be broken by early morning traffic and locals going to work or opening up their shops. We are now in search of our first café con leche! It's the start of another beautiful day hiking on the Camino Portugués !

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Here's an Irish proverb that I ran across that seemed most fitting as it captures the attitude taken by so many pilgrims as they walk the Camino: 

May love and laughter light your days, and warm your heart and home. May good and faithful friends be yours wherever you may roam...