Camino Daily Photo 45

My favorite time of day on the Camino is definitely the early morning. As we are about to cross the bridge in Pontevedra and leave the old city, one can't help but to take pause at the stillness of both the river and the city at sunrise. This is also the time of day when you have the trail mostly to yourself. Leaving the albergue between 06:00-06:30 gives the pilgrim some very precious quite time walking particularly during the busy season. One thing I missed this year was not hearing the European Cookoos in the morning as I did when I walked the Camino Francés. The reason I was told was that we were too early for them. They had not yet migrated back from Africa. What a shame! They truly sound just like the clocks!

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Staying at the San Martín Pinario was our Santiago splurge and reward for completing our pilgrimage. This magnificent hospedería is directly across from the north side of the cathedral. One can still feel the antiquity of this structure in its imposing stone walls, open courtyard, and long hallways. Modernized to meet today's standards, the rooms are very comfortable and a real treat after walking 250 kilometers. It was certainly more expensive than rest of our accommodations along The Way (55€ per night for a double), but this level of comfort seemed well earned. We look forward to staying here again next year after completing another Camino.

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Walking across the international bridge from Valença to Tui roughly marks the halfway point on our journey up from Porto. It also marks our entry into Spain and the start of our last 125 kilometers to Santiago. Six days to get to this point! It's most bitter-sweet to think that we only have six more days before this Camino comes to an end. As you can see in the photo, the view of the Tui Cathedral perched at the highest point in the city is grand. It will take us another 15-20 minutes to weave our way through narrow streets to the top where we'll spend the night at the Albergue Tui Hostel just steps from the cathedral. It was a rainy evening in a very quite town, but we were still able to enjoy some fine Spanish wine along with their famous cured ham.

Camino Daily Photo 42

Our stay in Pontevedra was one of our favorites. Not only did we have excellent accommodations at the Slow City Hostel, but we also had one of our best dining experiences on this Camino. The innkeeper suggested that we dine at a pulpería just a couple blocks away. After enjoying a couple glasses of wine at an outdoor cafe in the heart of the old city, we then headed out for some more delicious pulpo. And, wow, was it ever good. Our innkeeper wrote down several dinner suggestions including the octopus that we were looking for, scallops and a special seafood pie/tart and we ordered everything. Along with some local hose wine served in bowls instead of glasses, we ate like kings and queens. Part of the wonderful experience along the CP is the food. The pulpo served with boiled potatoes is most popular!

Camino Daily Photo 41

The first day walking the Coastal Route was really spectacular. As I have mentioned in an earlier posting, we started our trek long the coast at the Matosinhos Market in Porto. Most of the way up to Vila do Conde was along a very well-maintained boardwalk which made walking most pleasant. As luck was on our side that Saturday morning, the weather could not have been any better. Just based on this one day, we'd certainly entertain walking the entire Camino de la Costa as a uniquely different way to experience the Portuguese Camino.

Camino Daily Photo 40

Ah, the shoe rack! A most common sight to pilgrims staying in albergues as an attempt to control the amount of dirt and mud that could easily enter the sleeping areas.  Many albergues ask you to leave your shoes/boots in a designated area outside the sleeping quarters. In this way, particularly after a muddy day on the trail, the floors of the albergue stay reasonably clean. At the new Albergue Corredoiras in Padron, group lockers accommodated our dirt-laden shoes as we eagerly slipped into our sandals for an easy stroll around town after a long day of hiking.

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Along the Camino, there are so many interesting examples of contemporary art as if the antiquity of the country wasn't enough. Just a few kilometers outside Pontevedra, one walks past the lovely church of Santa María de Alba. Near the entrance was "stone guy." Clearly, he is eagerly awaiting a pilgrim to sit down beside him and to tell him how he is faring on his Camino. Although we did dally a bit to take a few photos, we had not yet been on the road long that morning to need much of a break. Our conversation with this guardian of the Camino was shorter than perhaps others later in the day had with him. In any case, I know he appreciated that we did pause a moment with him instead of just quickly walking by.

Camino Daily Photo 38

The hardest thing about walking the Caminho Portugués is not the terrain, but rather what you are walking on. For our five days in Portugal, we learned to embrace the cobbles. It's amazing the amount of work that went into laying kilometer after kilometer of cobblestones on these country paths. While one didn't have to deal with problems such as mud or ruts, the unevenness of the stones presented their own challenges. They were definitely slippery when wet! Nancy developed knee problems after our second day on them. But, before you know it, you cross into Spain at Valença and the cobblestone are gone forever! Magic?

Camino Daily Photo 37

As we approached Ponte de Lima, we couldn't help but notice the contrast between the old and the new. The walk along the River Lima before you get into town is quite pleasant. Just below the auto bridge, you encounter how the shallow rock falls on the right side of the river have been turned into a tribute to modern art. In the distance, the medieval bridge built around 1368 on Roman foundations highlights the antiquity of Portugal's "oldest" town. Our stay that night was at a very modest private pension (30€) the Beiro Rio directly above a pizza restaurant that offered from our room one of the best views in town of the old bridge. And, FYI, the pizza was delicious!

Camino Daily Photo 36

It's so easy to complain about this or that regardless of whether you're at home or even walking a Camino. For us, this sign summarized one of the reasons we were walking and what we were trying to get away from. Yes, one could complain about how heavy their pack was, how sore their feet were, or how many kilometers they still had to walk. But, instead, why not take the perspective that a bad day on the Camino is better than a good day at work! Walking 20-25 kms day after day is tough, but it's also so satisfying that by the time we reached Santiago we wanted to keep on going. Sore feet and all, we didn't want this Camino to end!

Camino Daily Photo 35

Sto. Tomás Church in Caldas de Reis is not particularly old as it was built in 1890, but the stones did come from the medieval castle in this area where King Alphonso VII was born. In its central position in town it is surrounded by welcoming palms and an open space where families congregated in the late afternoon as children played. In the shadow of the church, I was able to relax at an outside cafe where an ice cold beer was most welcomed after a long hot day of walking. As we found across Portugal and Spain, sitting in cafes with family and friends is a regular part of life. All the better when it can be done outdoors and in the warmth of a beautiful spring afternoon.

Camino Daily Photo 34

Another homage to the pilgrim along the Camino. This modern sculpture was just outside Tui next to the medieval bridge, Puente de Viega, over the Louro River. Numerous artists have created sculptures along The Way trying to capture the essence of the pilgrim who passes along this route to Santiago from ancient times until the present. With staff in hand and a most recognizable hat, this could only be the silhouette of a peregrino!

Camino Daily Photo 33

Although wisteria is just now blossoming here in upstate NY, we enjoyed these lovely flowers in late-March along the Caminho Central in Portugal. We are so accustomed to seeing lilac bushes here at home that the trellised lilacs were quite a pleasant surprise and most beautiful. This photo shows their typical placement showcasing or framing a house or garage. Had we walked a couple weeks earlier or later, we would have missed them altogether. Our good fortune!

Camino Daily Photo 32

Near the end of your Camino, there are two special moments. The first came for us, 7.5 km. from the end, as we were on the outskirts of Santiago and we got our first glimpse of the cathedral. As we had been walking for twelve days, seeing our destination in sight was a truly emotional moment. The second special moment, and the most important one, is when you finally enter the Praza de Obradoiro and get to look up upon the cathedral in all its glory now immediately in front of you. The cathedral itself seems to welcome the pilgrim and reward him for the journey. Mid-day is very busy around the cathedral square. However, as you can see from this photo of the Pazo de Raxoi on the west side of the plaza directly across from the cathedral's main entrance, if you stroll around early in the morning, as we did, there is a much greater sense of serenity that only lasts a short while before the city awakens and becomes animated once again for another day of arrivals.

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Although it's just the first week in April, the weather is still good enough to enjoy sitting outside in Padrón. This town, just a day before our arrival in Santiago, was one of my favorites. This promenade or paseo borders the River Sar that runs through what appears to be a pretty sleepy Spanish town.  Just a half block off the river, we enjoyed one of our best meals. Sitting outside on the Plaza Macias, the pulpo (octopus) was some of the best we had on this Camino. And, after more than ten days walking at this point, it was easy to bump into Camino friends and enjoy a glass of wine together. We were also cognizant of how this particular journey was soon to be over. 

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When walking a Camino, one can't help but be touched by both history and religion in this land so deeply steeped in both. The cathedral in Santiago is absolutely awe inspiring. But, along The Way the small, simple houses of God are most impressive in their own right. On our first day, as we walked from Porto to Vila do Conde, this small chapel looked east over the Atlantic.  Perched atop an austere cliff, we couldn't help but wonder who had visited here over the centuries and the  number of souls touched by events that took place here. All along our journey, we were regularly reminded of the importance of the Church in the lives of a deeply devote people past and present.

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The direction to Santiago is marked by the yellow arrow. Rarely, does it include as much information as this sign, but is just the simple arrow indicating the direction for the pilgrim to go. These marker might be on posts, walls, or simply painted on the pavement. One stays alert, particularly in urban areas, for the next arrow which might indicate continuing straight on or that it's time to turn. Faith propels you onward believing you're on the right path. Seeing the next marker confirms you're still heading on the intended route. The Camino Portugués is particularly well signed making a wrong turn still possible, but not too likely. And if one does miss an arrow, usually because of one distraction or another, it is quickly corrected with little lost.

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There are many magical moments one experiences walking the Camino. Every now and then, one gets to capture such a moment in a photograph. It was just after it was starting to get light as we were about to cross the bridge over the Lérez River leading out of Pontevedra that this picture was taken. A bridge on this spot has existed since Roman times. The stillness of the river cultures the peacefulness of the moment just before hectic morning activities in the city are in full gear. 

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Every so often along the Camino one finds a tribute this - The Shoe! Of all your hiking gear, there is nothing more important than having good footwear for day after day walking. Pilgrims seem split on what is best: the hiking shoe or a trail running shoe. Although my wife and I both walked in Merrell Moab's this Camino, I'd be equally comfortable in  my "sneakers". The Camino Portugués, from the perspective of terrain, is very hiker friendly. One does not need a heavy duty hiking boot! A light weight hiking shoe or running shoe will serve the pilgrim well. However, my one recommendation other than proper fit and breaking your shoes in well, is to go with a waterproof shoe. As we had four days of rain and wet weather, waterproof shoes (my preference is Gor-tex) and short, light weight gaiters will help keep your feet dry. Happy feet = happy pilgrim!

Camino Daily Photo 26

From the individual views of the blog, one of the topics of most interest has been our packing list, so here it is again. After walking the Camino Francés last year, I've learned a great deal about what to bring and what to leave at home. The bottom line is that one can travel very light since you don't need much on the Camino outside the basics. As you will see from this list, we kept the weight of our packs down to 6.25 kg including our water. A pack this light was a real joy to carry. To walk far, carry less!

                                                           Packed                        Wearing

                                                          (ounces)                      (ounces)

Clothing

Patagonia Hiking shorts                7.25 

Patagonia Pants                                                                   9.50 

Short Sleeve Shirts (2)                   4.0                                4.0 

Gerry Down Vest                             8.5 

North Face Rain Jacket/Shell       10.0 

Base layer

   Long sleeved shirt                      6.75 

   Pants                                            5.0 

injinji ToesocksSocks (3)              2.50                              1.25 

Underwear (3)                                4.0                                 2.0 

Ball cap                                                                                  2.0 

Buff                                                                                        1.25 

Gloves & Touk                                  2.5 

OR Low Gaiters                                3.75 

Merrell Moab GTXs                                                             29.5 

PR/Soles Sandals                             7.0 

Froggtogg Poncho                           6.5 

Equipment/Supplies

Osprey Stratos 36L Backpack      48.0

W/ Rain Cover

Fjallraven Sleeping bag                  17.0 

     (1-season)

Sunland Microfiber Towel               9.25 

Opinel pocket knife                                                               1.6 

Headlamp                                         3.0 

Toiletries/First Aid Kit                     19.0

H2O bottle (500ml) filled               20.0 

BAFX Hiking Poles                                                               21.5 

Extras

Brierley CP Guidebook                   6.75 

Canon G9X camera /case                                                   10.25 

Mini iPad                                          15.5 

Electronic Accessories                   13.5 

 

                                                        219.5

                                                          13.72 lbs. or 6.24 kg

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A frequently asked question about the Camino experience is what are the sleeping accommodations like? The accurate answer is that they vary greatly from place to place. Or, as Clint Eastwood might say, "The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly." As I always do a great deal of online research before leaving, I have a pretty good sense of what I'm getting into. In most of the private albergues, one can reserve a bed. This becomes important during the very busy months on the Camino as there can be a lot of competition for a bed particularly in a town with limited "cheap sleeps." A bed in an albergue generally costs between 5-10€. The municipal albergues are the least expensive and often in the highest demand. Sleeping accommodations range from small rooms with just a handful of beds to large sleeping dorms with over fifty beds. Earplugs are a must! This photo shows a compartmentalized arrangement at the new albergue Corredoiras in Padrón. Really quite nice and we had the place almost to ourselves.

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This lovely Roman bridge, the Ponte Romano, is found in Caldas de Reis. It was just one of many such bridges, some larger, some smaller, that we crossed as we traveled on the ancient Via Romana XIX. As I found when I walked the Camino Francés, one actually walks on the roadways built by the Romans after their conquest and settlement of the western part of Europe. Just across the bridge in Caldas is a fountain where many a weary pilgrim has soaked her feet. A few blocks from the center of town is the highly recommended Albergue O'Cruciero where we stayed. We enjoyed one of their private double rooms for little more than we would have paid for two beds in a dormitory. Right across the street is a large grocery store with everything one needs to prepare either a picnic or an evening meal.

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The corn stacks are a reminder of the pastoral life one wanders through while on a Camino. This particular field could have been anywhere in Portugal or Spain. As one winds their way along The Path through old villages and farms, images of the simplicity of days gone by pops up repeatedly. We walked during a very quiet time on the Camino and it frequently seemed as if we were the only ones around peaking in on the lives of those living in stone houses or along dirt roads in this foreign land that we were crossing.

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The decision to walk along the coast out of Porto was an excellent one. In addition to a beautiful sunny day along the beach, one couldn't ask for a better walking surface than the boardwalk.  This also allowed us to miss a long section of Porto's industrial zone on the first day of our Camino. By catching the #500 bus near the cathedral, we had an enjoyable ride along the River Douro before it joined the sea. From there, a few kilometers further, we started our walk at the Mercado Matosinhos. By day's end, finishing in downtown Vila do Conde, we had traveled 22 km which was more than enough since we didn't get a particularly start. As we needed to get our Pilgrim's Passport/Credencial at the cathedral that morning, we headed out close to 10 am.

Camino Daily Photo 21

Our overnight in Padrón was most enjoyable. This is a sleepy little town on the Sar River. As we were now just a day out of Santiago, many Camino friends were also spending the night. Enjoying an afternoon beer with them on one of the restaurant terraces is what the Camino is all about. We spent the night at the Albergue Corredoiras. This was one of the newer albergues that we stayed in and one of the few that actually accepted credit cards. Along with only four other pilgrims, we pretty much had the albergue to ourselves. Walking off seasons has its perks! We also treated ourselves to pulpo, octopus, for the last time on this trip. Delicious! Between the convent and the church, there is a great deal of history or lore associated with Saint James in Padrón.