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We all walk our own Camino! Our reasons are different for being on this trek; some religious, some secular. In any case, I believe we all hope to find certain things which led us there in the first place. This cartoon appeared in the local paper just this week. I immediately thought of the Camino! It reminds me to try and not be judgmental regarding other pilgrims motives for walking. We all have important reasons for walking to Santiago. Bom Caminho!

Camino Daily Photo 65

We have had a number of inquiries as to where we stayed along the Caminho Portugués. So, although we posted it much earlier in this blog, here again is the list of towns and albergues/hostels where we stayed. In planning this trip two particular websites were particular helpful: 1) Gronze.com and 2) Mundicamino.com. Both have a lot of information on the accommodations you can find along the CP.

Our Itinerary

Day          Town.         Distance (kms)     Accommodations

1          Flight from Montreal-Porto

2          Porto                                    The Poet's Inn

3          Vila do Conde       26            Bellamar Hostel

4          Barcelos               29            Barcelos Way Guest House

5          Lugar do Corgo   18            Casa de Fernanda

6          Ponte de Lima      15            Old Village Hostel

7           Rubiaes                  18           NINHO Albergue

8           Tui (Spain)             19           Alb. Tui Hostel

9            O Porriño              15            Alojamiento Camino Portugués 

10          Redondela              15.           Alfonso XII

11            Pontevedra           20           Slow City Hostel

12            Caldas de Reis      21            Alb. O Cruceiro

13            Padron                   18            Alb. Corredoiras

14.           Santiago                 25           Hosp. San Martin Pinario

15            Porto                    Bus            The Poet's Inn

16            Return flight from Porto to Montreal

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About half way through our Camino, we reached the city of Valença. Located on the Minho River, on the border between Portugal and Spain, this huge hilltop military fortress overlooks the neighboring Spanish town of Tui just across the river. At the point when you reach the fortress, take the alternate Camino route that meanders you through the ancient cobblestone streets of Valença and its historical buildings. At this point, pilgrims have a choice of spending the night at the albergue just outside the fortress walls, or continue on another 3 km across the International Bridge into the medieval center of Tui. After our pleasant stroll through the fortress, we wondered on into Spain where we had made reservations at the Albergue El Camino close to the cathedral. On that first very wet evening in Spain we were fortunate enough to find a trendy cafe/bar for wine and jamon de Iberia. 

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Ponte de Lima was only four days into our Camino, but it was one of those spots where I could have enjoyed spending extra time. It's an old city on both sides of the River Lima connected by a 300m long medieval stone bridge. We stayed that evening at the Pension Beira Rio directly overlooking this great bridge. Being above a top-notch pizza restaurant was also a plus. From a walk along the river to an attractive central plaza to narrow cobbled streets and historical buildings, Ponte de Lima probably is chosen by many pilgrims as a place to spend an extra day before trekking on. Our room undoubtedly had one of the best views offered by any accommodation in the city at a very reasonable 30€ for two.

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On a quiet forest path between Redondela and Pontevedra, one comes across this shell wall reminding us that many other pilgrims have walked here before. Since ancient times, travelers world-wide have left behind markers indicating that they passed through a place. So, how appropriate for this spot, probably seen by few other than pilgrims, to celebrate the Camino by a display of scallop shells left by weary pilgrims on their way to Santiago. This is just another reminder, as there are many, that this isn't just another long nature hike. As a symbol of Saint James, the scallop shell encourages a moment of reflection. For those who has passed before and those that will follow, we are all on this singular path for our own very personal reasons. Bom Caminho! 

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The Casa de Fernanda is truly one of the gems along the Caminho Portugués. Although Brierley suggests walking the Barcelos to Ponte de Lima Stage in one day, we knew that, adjusted for elevation, 35.8 km was way more than we wanted to take on. Plus, online recommendations for spending the night at Fernanda's were 100% excellent. Thus, on what turned out to be a wet and chilly day, we planned our stop at Lugar do Corgo to enjoy first class hospitality offered by Fernanda. We had called from the States to reserve beds since space is limited (12 beds in a dorm room plus a Private double room). From the moment we arrived until we left, Fernanda fed us like family. Although we had excellent accommodations all along the Caminho, no other place came close in warmth and true hospitality as that which we experienced at Fernanda's. 

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So many excellent images of Saint James can be found along The Way, but this is one of my favorites. On the main Praza do Obradoiro, this ancient carved stone image on the Colexio de Fonseca, faces out to greet every pilgrim as she approaches the cathedral. The signs of time and wear and tear are as evident on his face as is felt by many pilgrims after completing their Camino.

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One of the real "treats" of walking any Camino is the food. It is outstanding in both Spain and Portugal! From a very simple torta or pie to a fancy seafood dinner, one can eat very well both on the Camino and at the end of the day once the walking shoes are off. Almost every café/bar offers some sort of tasty torta or sandwich to get the pilgrim through mid-day. We never packed a lunch, but instead looked forward to finding a café/bar to take a well earned break and enjoy some of the food hikers as well as locals consumed with gusto. One doesn't want to overdo it mid-day with many more kilometers yet to walk, but a slice of tortilla de potato, a torta, or even a sandwich with their delicious Iberian ham is enough before trekking on to find that night's albergue. 

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When leaving Porto, the pilgrim has several options. Although our plan was to follow the Central Route north, we were also aware that leaving the city via the industrial zone was less than pleasant. Therefore, after getting our Credencial at the cathedral that morning, we headed for the coast. Here, too, options exist! As it was now pushing 10 am (the cathedral doesn't open until 9), we shortened our walk by beginning at the Matosinhos Market a few kilometers up the coast, but still in Porto, instead of the city center. Shortly after starting out, one comes across the Farol or lighthouse. From here, straight north, we walked along an extensive network of wooden boardwalks until some 22 km later we arrive in Vila do Conde where we had reservations for the night. It was a beautiful day along the beach and a great first day on the Camino! The next morning, we would connect with the Caminho Central in Arcos.

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We found it very hard, if not impossible, to get lost on the Camino Portugués! It is so well signed with yellow arrows or scallop shells that making it to Santiago was a certainty. Once in Spain, the pillar type signage begins as you see in this photo. In addition to being pointed, by way of the fingers of the shell, in the correct direction, you can also follow your progression counting down the kilometers as the distance to Santiago is posted on each one (unless it has been stolen)! Beginning in Porto, we had a journey of about 250 kilometers in order to reach the cathedral. Here at 90 km out, we are near Mos and just a few kilometers short of Redondela where we would stop for the day.

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Regardless of the Camino you walk, the very rural nature of Spain or Portugal that still exists can be seen almost daily on the paths that pilgrims and herders share. Although it's everyday life to the locals, I found myself captivated by  the passing of a herd of goats, sheep, or cows along The Way. In addition, seeing folks planting gardens and tending crops by hand reminds us that we're not too far distant from a time when this way of life was much more pervasive. Still, it can't be understated how important rural life-ways still are to many people around the world for it speaks to one of the important lessons that traveling can point out to us that we should not forget the importance of simpler times and family values.

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Although we had initially planned on walking the full Tui to Redondela stage in one day (33.9 km adjusted for elevation). We decided that it would be far wiser to stop halfway in O Porriño. There is a wonderful trail along the river just before getting to the city center. Both the municipal albergue and the private Albergue Camino Portugués (where we stayed) are located just as you emerge from the woods. By taking this route, we were able to avoid the industrial zone of the city and we missed having to walk along the highway for several kilometers (another good choice that day). With camera in hand, I strolled through the Traffic free pedestrian downtown and had some fun trying to be a bit artistic with my photographs. 

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To see the Santiago Cathedral from a distance as one approaches the end of the journey is one of the great moments a pilgrim has. For days or weeks, one has been walking toward this destination now within teach. As you walk closer, downs the streets of Santiago, the anticipation grows even greater. Since 2013, restoration work has been going on covering a main portion of the cathedral's facade. It's my understanding that this work will be completed later this year. In spite of the scaffolding, the majesty of this important Christian symbol cannot be overstated. After all, it is what has drawn pilgrims here fir well over a millennia. We look forward to returning next spring after another Camino to admire the finished product.

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In nearly all, if not every town, we pass through In Galicia and Portugal, often near churches, but sometimes in the town square or at a crossroads, there are these religious stone pillars or cruceiros often depicting Christ on the cross. As a pilgrim, one can't help but feel a certain Devine protection along The Way and a real connectedness with the spirituality of this journey. The origin of the cruceiro dates from 1564. Each cross seems to take on the character of those who constructed it. No two seem identical. Whether one is a religious person or not, the spiritual component of the Camino is ever present offering with that an often needed sense of comfort to the pilgrim.

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I think that most pilgrims will tell you that people make the Camino Experience what it is. Regardless of the Camino route, the hiking will be great and the passage through time and history fascinating. The antiquity of this part of the world is quickly realized the first time one walks across a Roman bridge or enters a church dating from the Middle Ages. But, the people one meets along The Way leave the most enduring memories of this journey across this countryside. As we are about to end this trek, Santiago is now only a few kilometers away, we enjoy a last bit of refreshment with a Dutch and German friend who we've known most of the way since leaving Porto. People come and go from your Camino family, but after any number of days walking, one is bound to meet up with someone you've met earlier in your travels. One only walks alone if that is what you want to do. Otherwise, friendships seem to blossom without a great deal of effort and become an endearing part of most people's Camino. 

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Perhaps the single most important thing for pilgrims on the Camino is foot care! I can't overemphasize the importance of good shoes, good socks, and a light backpack for preventing blisters or other foot problems. We both walked in high quality waterproof Merrells. For this Camino, I also alternated Injinji toe socks with my Moreno wool hiking socks. On the CF last year, my blister problem started on my toes. The toe socks keep the toes from rubbing together thus reducing the friction and the possible occurrence of blisters. No problems at all this year! Whenever we took a break, off came the shoes and socks to air out the feet a bit. Changing socks mid-hike every day also reduces the moisture inside your shoes. Luckily in both Spain and Portugal, pharmacists are the hikers best friend when it comes to foot, knee, or leg ailments. Ibuprofen cream was a real life saver after many hours on the cobblestones! Bom Caminho! 

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The major hill on the CP is that of the Alto de Portela Grande about 5 km before you reach Rubiāes. In comparison with some the the climbs on the Camino Francés, this 405m ascent will get the blood to your heart pumping a bit, but is neither overly long nor difficult. At the top there is a great view to the east of the surrounding hills and countryside making is definitely clear that you are in a very rural part of Portugal. The top was also a great place to stop for awhile before descending and in just a few kilometers reach our stopping point for the day the Albergue O Ninho (The Nest). This, too, proved to be another great spot to spend the night with an excellent restaurant, the Bom Retiro, just a couple hundred meters down the road. The next morning, after crossing another wonderful bridge from the Roman era, we were on our way to Tui leaving Portugal behind us.

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As we arrived in the village of Mos, about halfway betwen O Porriño and Redondela, we couldn't help but notice this most interesting wooden/thatched structure near the church. Although most pilgrims probably hike right through this town, there are a couple nice cafe/bars Where one can enjoy a most welcomed morning café con leche as we did. If you had started from Tui that day and didn't want to go all the way to Redondela, you could overnight here at the Albergue Casa Blanca.

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Along The Way, one runs into a number of depictions of Saint James. Some very classic; others, quite modern! With his characteristic hat and scallop shell, it's hard to mistake him, regardless of art style, as anyone other than the pilgrim on his journey to Santiago. We found this most playful portrait, a very caricature-like image, in Padrón. 

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As is often said, we all walk our own Camino. For us, leaving just as the sun was coming up was part of how we liked to greet each new day. With backpack on, the fresh morning air and quiet city streets made it seem as if we were the only pilgrims on this journey (at least at this time of day). One thinks about the many people behind shuttered windows who aren't even aware of our passing by. Soon enough this stillness will be broken by early morning traffic and locals going to work or opening up their shops. We are now in search of our first café con leche! It's the start of another beautiful day hiking on the Camino Portugués !

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Here's an Irish proverb that I ran across that seemed most fitting as it captures the attitude taken by so many pilgrims as they walk the Camino: 

May love and laughter light your days, and warm your heart and home. May good and faithful friends be yours wherever you may roam...

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My favorite time of day on the Camino is definitely the early morning. As we are about to cross the bridge in Pontevedra and leave the old city, one can't help but to take pause at the stillness of both the river and the city at sunrise. This is also the time of day when you have the trail mostly to yourself. Leaving the albergue between 06:00-06:30 gives the pilgrim some very precious quite time walking particularly during the busy season. One thing I missed this year was not hearing the European Cookoos in the morning as I did when I walked the Camino Francés. The reason I was told was that we were too early for them. They had not yet migrated back from Africa. What a shame! They truly sound just like the clocks!

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Staying at the San Martín Pinario was our Santiago splurge and reward for completing our pilgrimage. This magnificent hospedería is directly across from the north side of the cathedral. One can still feel the antiquity of this structure in its imposing stone walls, open courtyard, and long hallways. Modernized to meet today's standards, the rooms are very comfortable and a real treat after walking 250 kilometers. It was certainly more expensive than rest of our accommodations along The Way (55€ per night for a double), but this level of comfort seemed well earned. We look forward to staying here again next year after completing another Camino.

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Walking across the international bridge from Valença to Tui roughly marks the halfway point on our journey up from Porto. It also marks our entry into Spain and the start of our last 125 kilometers to Santiago. Six days to get to this point! It's most bitter-sweet to think that we only have six more days before this Camino comes to an end. As you can see in the photo, the view of the Tui Cathedral perched at the highest point in the city is grand. It will take us another 15-20 minutes to weave our way through narrow streets to the top where we'll spend the night at the Albergue Tui Hostel just steps from the cathedral. It was a rainy evening in a very quite town, but we were still able to enjoy some fine Spanish wine along with their famous cured ham.

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Our stay in Pontevedra was one of our favorites. Not only did we have excellent accommodations at the Slow City Hostel, but we also had one of our best dining experiences on this Camino. The innkeeper suggested that we dine at a pulpería just a couple blocks away. After enjoying a couple glasses of wine at an outdoor cafe in the heart of the old city, we then headed out for some more delicious pulpo. And, wow, was it ever good. Our innkeeper wrote down several dinner suggestions including the octopus that we were looking for, scallops and a special seafood pie/tart and we ordered everything. Along with some local hose wine served in bowls instead of glasses, we ate like kings and queens. Part of the wonderful experience along the CP is the food. The pulpo served with boiled potatoes is most popular!

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The first day walking the Coastal Route was really spectacular. As I have mentioned in an earlier posting, we started our trek long the coast at the Matosinhos Market in Porto. Most of the way up to Vila do Conde was along a very well-maintained boardwalk which made walking most pleasant. As luck was on our side that Saturday morning, the weather could not have been any better. Just based on this one day, we'd certainly entertain walking the entire Camino de la Costa as a uniquely different way to experience the Portuguese Camino.

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Ah, the shoe rack! A most common sight to pilgrims staying in albergues as an attempt to control the amount of dirt and mud that could easily enter the sleeping areas.  Many albergues ask you to leave your shoes/boots in a designated area outside the sleeping quarters. In this way, particularly after a muddy day on the trail, the floors of the albergue stay reasonably clean. At the new Albergue Corredoiras in Padron, group lockers accommodated our dirt-laden shoes as we eagerly slipped into our sandals for an easy stroll around town after a long day of hiking.

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Along the Camino, there are so many interesting examples of contemporary art as if the antiquity of the country wasn't enough. Just a few kilometers outside Pontevedra, one walks past the lovely church of Santa María de Alba. Near the entrance was "stone guy." Clearly, he is eagerly awaiting a pilgrim to sit down beside him and to tell him how he is faring on his Camino. Although we did dally a bit to take a few photos, we had not yet been on the road long that morning to need much of a break. Our conversation with this guardian of the Camino was shorter than perhaps others later in the day had with him. In any case, I know he appreciated that we did pause a moment with him instead of just quickly walking by.

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The hardest thing about walking the Caminho Portugués is not the terrain, but rather what you are walking on. For our five days in Portugal, we learned to embrace the cobbles. It's amazing the amount of work that went into laying kilometer after kilometer of cobblestones on these country paths. While one didn't have to deal with problems such as mud or ruts, the unevenness of the stones presented their own challenges. They were definitely slippery when wet! Nancy developed knee problems after our second day on them. But, before you know it, you cross into Spain at Valença and the cobblestone are gone forever! Magic?

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As we approached Ponte de Lima, we couldn't help but notice the contrast between the old and the new. The walk along the River Lima before you get into town is quite pleasant. Just below the auto bridge, you encounter how the shallow rock falls on the right side of the river have been turned into a tribute to modern art. In the distance, the medieval bridge built around 1368 on Roman foundations highlights the antiquity of Portugal's "oldest" town. Our stay that night was at a very modest private pension (30€) the Beiro Rio directly above a pizza restaurant that offered from our room one of the best views in town of the old bridge. And, FYI, the pizza was delicious!

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It's so easy to complain about this or that regardless of whether you're at home or even walking a Camino. For us, this sign summarized one of the reasons we were walking and what we were trying to get away from. Yes, one could complain about how heavy their pack was, how sore their feet were, or how many kilometers they still had to walk. But, instead, why not take the perspective that a bad day on the Camino is better than a good day at work! Walking 20-25 kms day after day is tough, but it's also so satisfying that by the time we reached Santiago we wanted to keep on going. Sore feet and all, we didn't want this Camino to end!

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Sto. Tomás Church in Caldas de Reis is not particularly old as it was built in 1890, but the stones did come from the medieval castle in this area where King Alphonso VII was born. In its central position in town it is surrounded by welcoming palms and an open space where families congregated in the late afternoon as children played. In the shadow of the church, I was able to relax at an outside cafe where an ice cold beer was most welcomed after a long hot day of walking. As we found across Portugal and Spain, sitting in cafes with family and friends is a regular part of life. All the better when it can be done outdoors and in the warmth of a beautiful spring afternoon.

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Another homage to the pilgrim along the Camino. This modern sculpture was just outside Tui next to the medieval bridge, Puente de Viega, over the Louro River. Numerous artists have created sculptures along The Way trying to capture the essence of the pilgrim who passes along this route to Santiago from ancient times until the present. With staff in hand and a most recognizable hat, this could only be the silhouette of a peregrino!

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Although wisteria is just now blossoming here in upstate NY, we enjoyed these lovely flowers in late-March along the Caminho Central in Portugal. We are so accustomed to seeing lilac bushes here at home that the trellised lilacs were quite a pleasant surprise and most beautiful. This photo shows their typical placement showcasing or framing a house or garage. Had we walked a couple weeks earlier or later, we would have missed them altogether. Our good fortune!

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Near the end of your Camino, there are two special moments. The first came for us, 7.5 km. from the end, as we were on the outskirts of Santiago and we got our first glimpse of the cathedral. As we had been walking for twelve days, seeing our destination in sight was a truly emotional moment. The second special moment, and the most important one, is when you finally enter the Praza de Obradoiro and get to look up upon the cathedral in all its glory now immediately in front of you. The cathedral itself seems to welcome the pilgrim and reward him for the journey. Mid-day is very busy around the cathedral square. However, as you can see from this photo of the Pazo de Raxoi on the west side of the plaza directly across from the cathedral's main entrance, if you stroll around early in the morning, as we did, there is a much greater sense of serenity that only lasts a short while before the city awakens and becomes animated once again for another day of arrivals.

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Although it's just the first week in April, the weather is still good enough to enjoy sitting outside in Padrón. This town, just a day before our arrival in Santiago, was one of my favorites. This promenade or paseo borders the River Sar that runs through what appears to be a pretty sleepy Spanish town.  Just a half block off the river, we enjoyed one of our best meals. Sitting outside on the Plaza Macias, the pulpo (octopus) was some of the best we had on this Camino. And, after more than ten days walking at this point, it was easy to bump into Camino friends and enjoy a glass of wine together. We were also cognizant of how this particular journey was soon to be over. 

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When walking a Camino, one can't help but be touched by both history and religion in this land so deeply steeped in both. The cathedral in Santiago is absolutely awe inspiring. But, along The Way the small, simple houses of God are most impressive in their own right. On our first day, as we walked from Porto to Vila do Conde, this small chapel looked east over the Atlantic.  Perched atop an austere cliff, we couldn't help but wonder who had visited here over the centuries and the  number of souls touched by events that took place here. All along our journey, we were regularly reminded of the importance of the Church in the lives of a deeply devote people past and present.

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The direction to Santiago is marked by the yellow arrow. Rarely, does it include as much information as this sign, but is just the simple arrow indicating the direction for the pilgrim to go. These marker might be on posts, walls, or simply painted on the pavement. One stays alert, particularly in urban areas, for the next arrow which might indicate continuing straight on or that it's time to turn. Faith propels you onward believing you're on the right path. Seeing the next marker confirms you're still heading on the intended route. The Camino Portugués is particularly well signed making a wrong turn still possible, but not too likely. And if one does miss an arrow, usually because of one distraction or another, it is quickly corrected with little lost.

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There are many magical moments one experiences walking the Camino. Every now and then, one gets to capture such a moment in a photograph. It was just after it was starting to get light as we were about to cross the bridge over the Lérez River leading out of Pontevedra that this picture was taken. A bridge on this spot has existed since Roman times. The stillness of the river cultures the peacefulness of the moment just before hectic morning activities in the city are in full gear. 

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Every so often along the Camino one finds a tribute this - The Shoe! Of all your hiking gear, there is nothing more important than having good footwear for day after day walking. Pilgrims seem split on what is best: the hiking shoe or a trail running shoe. Although my wife and I both walked in Merrell Moab's this Camino, I'd be equally comfortable in  my "sneakers". The Camino Portugués, from the perspective of terrain, is very hiker friendly. One does not need a heavy duty hiking boot! A light weight hiking shoe or running shoe will serve the pilgrim well. However, my one recommendation other than proper fit and breaking your shoes in well, is to go with a waterproof shoe. As we had four days of rain and wet weather, waterproof shoes (my preference is Gor-tex) and short, light weight gaiters will help keep your feet dry. Happy feet = happy pilgrim!

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From the individual views of the blog, one of the topics of most interest has been our packing list, so here it is again. After walking the Camino Francés last year, I've learned a great deal about what to bring and what to leave at home. The bottom line is that one can travel very light since you don't need much on the Camino outside the basics. As you will see from this list, we kept the weight of our packs down to 6.25 kg including our water. A pack this light was a real joy to carry. To walk far, carry less!

                                                           Packed                        Wearing

                                                          (ounces)                      (ounces)

Clothing

Patagonia Hiking shorts                7.25 

Patagonia Pants                                                                   9.50 

Short Sleeve Shirts (2)                   4.0                                4.0 

Gerry Down Vest                             8.5 

North Face Rain Jacket/Shell       10.0 

Base layer

   Long sleeved shirt                      6.75 

   Pants                                            5.0 

injinji ToesocksSocks (3)              2.50                              1.25 

Underwear (3)                                4.0                                 2.0 

Ball cap                                                                                  2.0 

Buff                                                                                        1.25 

Gloves & Touk                                  2.5 

OR Low Gaiters                                3.75 

Merrell Moab GTXs                                                             29.5 

PR/Soles Sandals                             7.0 

Froggtogg Poncho                           6.5 

Equipment/Supplies

Osprey Stratos 36L Backpack      48.0

W/ Rain Cover

Fjallraven Sleeping bag                  17.0 

     (1-season)

Sunland Microfiber Towel               9.25 

Opinel pocket knife                                                               1.6 

Headlamp                                         3.0 

Toiletries/First Aid Kit                     19.0

H2O bottle (500ml) filled               20.0 

BAFX Hiking Poles                                                               21.5 

Extras

Brierley CP Guidebook                   6.75 

Canon G9X camera /case                                                   10.25 

Mini iPad                                          15.5 

Electronic Accessories                   13.5 

 

                                                        219.5

                                                          13.72 lbs. or 6.24 kg

Camino Daily Photo 25

A frequently asked question about the Camino experience is what are the sleeping accommodations like? The accurate answer is that they vary greatly from place to place. Or, as Clint Eastwood might say, "The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly." As I always do a great deal of online research before leaving, I have a pretty good sense of what I'm getting into. In most of the private albergues, one can reserve a bed. This becomes important during the very busy months on the Camino as there can be a lot of competition for a bed particularly in a town with limited "cheap sleeps." A bed in an albergue generally costs between 5-10€. The municipal albergues are the least expensive and often in the highest demand. Sleeping accommodations range from small rooms with just a handful of beds to large sleeping dorms with over fifty beds. Earplugs are a must! This photo shows a compartmentalized arrangement at the new albergue Corredoiras in Padrón. Really quite nice and we had the place almost to ourselves.

Camino Daily Photo 24

This lovely Roman bridge, the Ponte Romano, is found in Caldas de Reis. It was just one of many such bridges, some larger, some smaller, that we crossed as we traveled on the ancient Via Romana XIX. As I found when I walked the Camino Francés, one actually walks on the roadways built by the Romans after their conquest and settlement of the western part of Europe. Just across the bridge in Caldas is a fountain where many a weary pilgrim has soaked her feet. A few blocks from the center of town is the highly recommended Albergue O'Cruciero where we stayed. We enjoyed one of their private double rooms for little more than we would have paid for two beds in a dormitory. Right across the street is a large grocery store with everything one needs to prepare either a picnic or an evening meal.

Camino Daily Photo 23

The corn stacks are a reminder of the pastoral life one wanders through while on a Camino. This particular field could have been anywhere in Portugal or Spain. As one winds their way along The Path through old villages and farms, images of the simplicity of days gone by pops up repeatedly. We walked during a very quiet time on the Camino and it frequently seemed as if we were the only ones around peaking in on the lives of those living in stone houses or along dirt roads in this foreign land that we were crossing.

Camino Daily Photo 22

The decision to walk along the coast out of Porto was an excellent one. In addition to a beautiful sunny day along the beach, one couldn't ask for a better walking surface than the boardwalk.  This also allowed us to miss a long section of Porto's industrial zone on the first day of our Camino. By catching the #500 bus near the cathedral, we had an enjoyable ride along the River Douro before it joined the sea. From there, a few kilometers further, we started our walk at the Mercado Matosinhos. By day's end, finishing in downtown Vila do Conde, we had traveled 22 km which was more than enough since we didn't get a particularly start. As we needed to get our Pilgrim's Passport/Credencial at the cathedral that morning, we headed out close to 10 am.